THE EAST, BEYOND APPEARANCES
The east, beyond appearances
In the collective imagination, the word incense addresses the religious meaning, to something that is considered sacred.
How many times have we smelled, during the most important religious ceremonies, that pleasant fragrance emanating from vegetable resins.
Incense is also used extensively in Bali but, while in churches it is contained in a brazier, in Bali temples (and in general in any place considered important for a Balinese) it is released from sticks placed in small green baskets called Canang Sari.
These tiny containers made with woven palm leaves often take on the appearance of real artistic creations, and inside they contain flowers, candies, coins, and everything that is considered useful as a sacrifice for the gods and spirits.
It will often happen to see them burning throughout Bali, even in the most remote places, such as in the temples we accidentally visited instead of the more famous Lempuyang.
Wrapped in the morning fog, we took the wrong address and ended up parking in some parallel street, and we continued on foot in the jungle, following a path that led to the top. Despite being surrounded by a lush tropical landscape, these temples and altars seemed little frequented, almost abandoned, and we were very sorry to reach the graceful higher temple trying to avoid the garbage scattered everywhere along the way.
Then we retraced our steps, followed for part of the way by a gang of monkeys not too reassuring, finally reaching "the real Lempuyang", a disappointment.
We explain the reason: seeing people pay to take the ticket and queue to take a photo in the famous gate of paradise made that place sad, distorted its original meaning, which must have been that of adoration towards Agung, the volcano creator and at the same time destroyer of the island.
Fortunately, the second destination of the day, the Tirta Ganga, a palace and botanical garden nestled in a splendid valley of terraced rice fields, brought back the smile and positivity.
This small palace has a beautiful aquatic garden with attention to every detail, and from its iconic pond where hundreds of gigantic and colorful Koi carp live, octagonal tiles emerge on which it is possible to walk (with a little patience for the large tourist influx) on the water.
To finish the exploration of the east, in the afternoon we visited the small temple of Goa Lawah, very particular for its cave containing a myriad of bats, and the quiet Pura Kehen, with the characteristic banyan tree at the center of the complex. also sacred to the religion of Bali.
This tree indicates the awakening, the spiritual enlightenment reached by the historical Buddha, the way of seeing the reality of the world, beyond appearances.
Very often it will happen to see these giants wrapped in a black and white checkered cloth, the Saput Poleng, or the fabric that represents the Rwa Bhineda, the duality of evil and good, pain and joy, death and life.
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