After leaving Hof, the number of cars crossing on road 1 was increasing considerably, which could only mean one thing: we were returning to the civilized world, in the most populated and touristy area in all of Iceland.

We drove along the main road until we met a sign near Vik with directions to Reynisfjara black beach, which we followed, arriving at a parking lot. 

The wind was very strong, especially when we reached the black sand. The force of the sea was powerful, and the waves beat against the shore with immense force.

We continued walking, turning left, where the splendid gray cliff formed by basalt rocks rose for tens of meters, on the top of which the puffins settled, birds that we had never seen before this holiday. Many threw themselves into sea fishing, others remained motionless, suspended in the air in the strong verto, as if by magic, and still others were sheltered on the cliff.

We would have liked to get closer to take some pictures, but being too low and without canvases, it was impossible. 

At the end of the walk we saw Reynisdrangar, beautiful rock formations that emerging from the icy waters rushed towards the sky for several meters. In Icelandic folklore, these formations are linked to legends involving two trolls who, by mistaking the timing of returning to the mainland, were petrified at dawn.

A short distance away, the next stop of the day awaited us, represented by the scenic Dyrholaey peninsula, with its ancient lighthouse dating back to 1927 and the cliff overlooking the sea with a large arch in the center, the result of erosion that took place over hundreds of years. similar to the famous Faraglioni of Capri.

A pleasant surprise was, in the midst of a wind that blew with unprecedented strength, the close sighting of hundreds of other puffins. 

Being this time in an elevated position, we could observe their strange multicolored triangular beaks and their black and white plumage. It was the umpteenth experience in a land that continued to offer different surprises every day.
At the highest point, looking west, you could see the endless expanse of black sand contending its boundaries with the white of the waves. 

The day ended with a visit to the Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls, described in one of the previous articles.

The next day we left for the last stop away from civilization of this unforgettable holiday, the highlands of Landmannalaugar. Although the weather was turning bad, we still decided to visit this area.

Never was a more appropriate choice: once we arrived on the F208 the weather turned in our favor and the clouds, thinned out, made room for a warm sun.

The Landmannalaugar geothermal area is a fantastic land, and perhaps best represents all of Iceland. During the few kilometers of trekking we encountered very green meadows crossed by warm rivulets, followed by a solidified lava field, and finally an area of ​​fumaroles. We stopped at the point where in the distance we could see hills with colorful shades similar to those encountered at Leirhnjukur and Kerlingarfjoll, and we turned back along a river of glacial origin.

The excursion took us almost the whole day, giving us only a little extra time to visit the very high Haifoss waterfall.

Before returning to Reykjavik, we had a last rejuvenating thermal bath in the Reykjadalur valley, near Hveragerdi, and visited the greenhouses of Fridheimar, two kilometers northwest of Fludir.

Why this stage? Because we were curious to find out how Icelanders can, in an apparently inhospitable territory for vegetables, grow organic tomatoes with a superlative taste!

They exploited the geothermal heat, and channeled it to heat the greenhouses where cables support the tomato plants, especially the cherry tomatoes.

The light is provided by LED lamps that turn on and off according to the amount of external light, the soil is made up of humus from the Finnish undergrowth, and the pollination is provided by colonies of bumblebees imported from Holland. Sensational, right?

The tomatoes obtained from this process are organic and have an incomparable taste, giving Italian tomatoes a hard time.

The greenhouses have inside them a restaurant that serves these delicacies, and lunch was indispensable.