AROUND REYKJAVIK
Around Reykjavik
The golden circle, the area most densely populated by tourists in Iceland.
Tourists of all kinds are attracted by 3 natural wonders, not too far from Reykjavik, which for many are worth the full price of the ticket to land on the island (but they should only be seen as the tip of the iceberg, as the departure for a much longer and in-depth exploration).
Being among many was the price to pay, but perhaps, looking back, we were lucky in visiting Iceland during the pandemic era: I don't dare to imagine how many there were in the previous era, I think so many that they had a "disturbing element” to cancel the possibilities of contemplation in silence.
I understand why the sheep cling to the steep slopes in isolation. But let's get back to us: if you have a slight agoraphobia, possibly walk the golden circle early in the morning, when the "Vikings away" buses are still dormant.
Only in this way can you enjoy a peaceful walk through history in Thingvellir, or feel small in Gullfoss, or jump backwards when the Strokkur snorts.
Thingvellir is the park of the Icelanders.
Its geographical position makes it a special place: it stands next to Lake Thingvallavatn, the largest in Iceland, populated by trout and salmon among the largest of the species. From this lake, fed mostly by underground springs that keep the lake temperature constant all year round at 5°C, passes the Silfra fault, where it is possible to see (by snorkeling) the effects of the distancing between the American and Eurasian plates.
Effects that are also seen walking in the park while crossing the Almannagjá fault (gorge of all men): this 5-kilometer-long canyon, crossed by the Õxara river with the scenic Õxaráfoss waterfall, is the real demonstration of Alfred's theory of continental drift Wegener of 1912.
The two faults, moving away at an impressive rate of about 2 cm per year, will be 200 km apart in 10 million years.
It practically does not move!
You will say, because it would actually seem an infinite time, but which in reality corresponds to about 0.0022% of the current lifetime of our planet, estimated at 4543 million years.
Comparing them to the average life span of an individual of 80 years, they would be about 0.176 years, or 2.16 months, or still about 65 days of life: just under a season.
In just under a season, the faults are separated by 200 km, making it clear to anyone that our planet is unique and alive! Thingvellir (in Icelandic "Plain of the assembly") is the subject of both geological and historical studies: it has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004, it has been used as a meeting place since the time when the first communities settled permanently in Iceland.
Here, in the year 930, the Althing was founded, perhaps the oldest parliament in the world (although many researches question it, concluding that Snaefell may be the first place of parliament).
Leaving aside this dispute, we can say with certainty that the parliamentary assembly met once a year, and on this occasion the speakers (Lögsögumenn) recited the law orally and regulated the conflicts.
Around 1000, also in this place, Christianity was proclaimed the religion of Iceland, and at the same time there was "the event of Godafoss" (for the curious, we will talk about it later).
After the imposition of Christianity, at the behest of the Norwegian king Olaf II, known as "the saint", Thingvallakirkja church was built in 1015, although the current construction dates back to 1859.
This was our last stop in Thingvellir, after which we set off to reach the geothermal area of Haukadalur.
The goal of this stop was Strokkur, the name of the still active geyser of the site, perhaps the most photographed and closely captured in the world.
Seeing its jet of steam tens of meters high made an impression, indeed ... to tell the truth I jumped back almost throwing myself to the ground because I was resuming the moment of the eruption. It was a lifetime that I wanted to see a live geyser! It is absolutely fantastic, and for all lovers of nature, trekking and landscapes it is something indescribable.
I won't go too far to describe all the geological details in more detail, but the release of this high-pressure jet is due to the heat that comes from the magma.
The heat heats the water to a temperature that exceeds the boiling point, but the great pressure exerted by the volume of liquid water above prevents vaporization. The underlying water thus continues to increase its temperature, until it reaches so much energy that it breaks the equilibrium point, generating a chain reaction that culminates with the 30 m high jet of hot water and steam.
The whole area obviously "smells" of sulfur (when you travel to Iceland you will learn to live with it so deeply that your brain, once it gets used to it, will transform it from stink to perfume).
The last stop to visit of the golden circle is Gullfoss, an imposing jump of the Ölfusá river.
The following images show this "small" waterfall that generates an immense roar. It is as if nature appeared in all its power and told you: "Have you seen what I am capable of, little human?"
After having washed ourselves thoroughly for the droplets of water suspended in the air, we returned to the parking lot to have our frugal packed lunch.
We finally decided to leave again, knowing that we would abandon the mass tourism civilization for days, almost as if it were our "we went out to see the stars".
We thus turned right and continued until we reached the F-35 with “our” Vitara.
To be continued...
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