RICE BETWEEN MAN, GODS AND NATURE
Rice between man, gods and nature
It is right on the shore of Lake Bratan, a small lake nestled in the green plateau of the north-central, that one of the most admired, photographed and visited temples in all of Bali stands, Ulun Danu Bratan.
This jewel with an unmistakable shape that is reflected in the water, dating back to 1633, could contain all the essence of this island, the ultimate reason why a traveler must absolutely include Bali among his itineraries.
As always, due to the huge influx of visitors, we recommend visiting it early in the morning, perhaps when the suggestive fog that forms at these altitudes (about 1200 meters) begins to thin out. To get there, you have to follow a main road that from Ubud crosses the endless rice fields alternating with a wild expanse of green, where you will surely want to stop and admire the sublime surrounding landscape (unless you find the "suggestive fog").
Both Buddhist and Hindu in character, the sacred complex, dedicated to the water goddess Dewi Danu, includes a main altar used for ceremonies.
Exciting is the small temple that rises a few meters from the water, which with its meru already fascinates from a great distance.
Throughout the area, altars and temples are surrounded by beautiful flower gardens, with attention to the smallest detail, and it is not uncommon to come across pilgrims presenting offerings to the gods in exchange for their favor.
Once we left the temple we continued our journey towards the picturesque twin lakes, and from there we continued, after eating nasi (rice) in a small warung, in the direction of the wild Munduk waterfalls, reachable after a short walk in the jungle, where lush tropical vegetation alternated with coffee plants.
But now let's take a step back in our story, going back to the beginning, to the reason why the visit to the Bratan temple alone is worth the entire stay on the Indonesian island.
In Bali, rice is the essential food for everyone; to realize its importance just think of the fact that on the island the term rice is indicated with three distinct words: the word "padi" indicates the rice from crops, "beras" indicates the grains ready for sale, and "nasi" is used for cooked rice.
The grain of rice is the lifeblood, it is an integral part of the millenary Balinese society, it is the central pivot on which the harmonious cycle of life rotates.
Since the 9th century AD, man has been able to establish an effective and sustainable agricultural system called Subak on this island, merging ingenuity, culture and religion.
Belonging to the Subak community means being more than just a farmer: it means making your own the "law of the three levels of harmony" (Tri Hita Karana) which bases its philosophical values on respect for other individuals, for the gods and for the nature.
The Balinese farmer therefore considers his land as a sacred gift to be protected and cared for, and is aware that life on the island is only possible from a balance of the three aforementioned elements.
For this reason, the water of each Subak community begins to flow towards the fields from the temples consecrated to the deities, and part of the harvest is offered to the gods thus closing the cosmic circle.
The Bratan temple is one of the most important centers of the island, because the water of the volcanic lake is channeled inside it, and it is for this reason the fulcrum of the entire community in the area, which draws this sacred water to irrigate the fields.
More generally, it is truly amazing to see the millennial canal system cross the famous terraced rice fields of Tegallang or Jatiluwih; it makes us understand how much the Subak culture of this island is based on the cultivation of rice, in a completely sustainable and traditional way (which has guaranteed a very high yield of the soil, in addition to the Unesco nomination).
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