Portovenere

Start:
End:
Path lenght:
Difference in altitude:
Difficulty:
Ring path:
Trekking date:

Riomaggiore
Portovenere
11 Km

700 mt
Medium
No, possible return by ferry.
June

The path enters the 
Mediterranean scrub,
where the smell of flowering
broom mixes with
the saltiness of the sea.

PORTOVENERE

Start: Riomaggiore
End: Portovenere
Path lenght: 11 km.
Difference in altitude: 700 mt.
Difficulty: medium
Ring path: no, possible return by ferry
Trekking date: june

Portovenere

We share the coordinates:
44.098650, 9.737679
(Copy and paste in Google Maps search label)

It is one of the most beautiful trails in the world, with unforgettable views and glimpses. The path winds through the Mediterranean scrub, where the scent of broom in bloom mixes with the saltiness of the sea, and the gaze travels beyond the vines cultivated in terraces overlooking the sea, diving into infinity.

Riomaggiore and its houses clinging to the cliffs looking for space.
Riomaggiore and its houses clinging to the cliffs looking for space.
Towards the sanctuary of Montenero: a window on the Ligurian Sea.
Towards the sanctuary of Montenero: a window on the Ligurian Sea.

It was necessary to make this premise to try to make people understand what it feels like when walking along paths like the one that starts from Riomaggiore and arrives in Portovenere.

The jagged coast of the 5 Terre, and below, Riomaggiore.
The jagged coast of the 5 Terre, and below, Riomaggiore.

After a breakfast at the Riomaggiore station bar, we walked the long tunnel that leads to via Colombo. Once there, you go up an infinite number of steps that end in the cemetery area, in an elevated position above the city. Other steps to take, more sweat on the forehead as in the previous day, until you reach the sanctuary of Montenero, which with its enviable view dominates the sea, immersed in peace.

Vineyard above Riomaggiore with sea view.
Vineyard above Riomaggiore with sea view.
Flowery detail as you walk the path that reaches the
Flowery detail as you walk the path that reaches the "telegraph" location.

From here we start again on the stretch of the Telegraph path (due to the telegraph built in the nineteenth century).

It was not a trek, it was a continuous contemplation of nature, a bit as if one were grasping the most precious idea of ​​a famous painter intent on painting his most famous painting: yellow gorse in full bloom, green terraces planted with vines, white fragrant jasmine, all enriched by scenic views that plunged from the blue of the sky to the deep blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea.

These glimpses that are lost in the infinite sea that bathes the 5 Terre will accompany you throughout the trek.
These glimpses that are lost in the infinite sea that bathes the 5 Terre will accompany you throughout the trek.

After this unforgettable stretch, the path becomes more wooded and, leaving behind the last terraces, reaches Campiglia, a pretty hillside village from which you can see the Gulf of Poets with the backdrop filled with the majesty of the Apuan Alps.

We continued on to Muzzerrone, where the stretch halfway up the coast gave us the view of an imposing cliff overlooking the sea.

The gulf of La Spezia, with the Apuan Alps in the background.
The gulf of La Spezia, with the Apuan Alps in the background.
In the distance, seen from the village of Campiglia: the island of Palmaria.
In the distance, seen from the village of Campiglia: the island of Palmaria.

Once we passed this stretch we went down towards our destination of the day. We reached Portovenere from above: in front of our eyes there were the ancient and imposing Castello Doria, built in the late Middle Ages, the solitary church of San Pietro (probably built on a pagan temple dedicated to the worship of the goddess Venus), located on the cliff at the entrance to the gulf, and the very green island of Palmaria, surrounded by a sea with turquoise waters.

The superlative colors of the sea that bathe Portovenere and the Palmaria island.
The superlative colors of the sea that bathe Portovenere and the Palmaria island.

"There the triton emerges from the waves that lap the thresholds of a Christian temple, and every next hour is ancient. Every doubt is led by the hand like a friendly girl. There it is not who looks at himself or listens to himself. Here you are at the origin and deciding is foolish: you will leave later to take on a face "
Eugenio Montale, Portovenere

After taking a few minutes to observe this panorama, which is also part of the World Heritage Sites, we went down to the small port where you have a lot of choice to rest and tease a few bites. 

La celebre grotta di Byron, subito dietro Portovenere.
La celebre grotta di Byron, subito dietro Portovenere.
Portovenere vista dal castello Doria.
Portovenere vista dal castello Doria.

Here is also the Byron cave, a famous cavity where the poet drew inspiration for his compositions, visible from one of the mullioned windows along the path leading to the church.

Riomaggiore seen from the boat taken for the return from Portovenere.
Riomaggiore seen from the boat taken for the return from Portovenere.

We thus concluded the path of infinity by returning by ferry to Riomaggiore, from which we observed, about halfway through, the tiny peasant village of Monesteroli nestled on the cliff.

Cinque Terre, it was a goodbye.

Trekking Map

Mappa from Riomaggiore to Portovenere

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