In the late morning we left Nukus, the capital of the Karakalpakstan region, and headed towards Khiva, a UNESCO heritage site since 1991. For those wishing to visit Karaklapakstan we recommend reading the previous articles.

From this point on, our visit to Uzbekistan corresponds to what travel agencies call a “Classic Tour”, which includes the 3 most important Uzbek cities of the Silk Road.

The Silk Road

The term "Silk Road", coined in 1877 by the German geographer Ferdinand Von Richthofen, refers to a dense network of trade routes that crossed Central Asia in classical and medieval times, connecting the Mediterranean Sea basin with China.

An illustrious person who traveled the route was Marco Polo, who described it in the Milione, the account of his travels.

The road, in addition to being used to exchange products, also served to spread religious, social, scientific and technological ideas, essential for the progress of human civilization.

Suffice it to say that the Chinese paper production technique spread along these routes, the secret of which was revealed during the Battle of Talas in 751: the Arabs, having learned the technique from some prisoners of war, started its production in Samarkand.

The dense network of roads often crossed deserted and sparsely inhabited lands, where banditry was widespread, and where the only safe stopping points were oases and caravanserais.

Here they stopped long enough to let the animals catch their breath, buy supplies and exchange goods with the other caravans.

Uzbekistan was a fundamental hub of the Silk Road, because being approximately halfway between East and West, it allowed Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand to have their golden age.

As always happens in history, subsequent periods of political instability, wars and invasions contributed to the decline of land routes, which were entirely replaced by cheaper and safer sea routes.

The three fortresses of Ayaz-Qala

Before reaching Khiva in the late afternoon, we took a detour to visit the three fortresses of Ayaz-Qala, which were once part of the defense system of the vast Islamic kingdom of Khwarezmia.

The fortresses were built to stem the incursions of nomads arriving from the east and north, but fell into disuse after the Mongol invasion and subsequent conquest by Genghis Khan.

Of what remains, the mighty walls up to 10 meters high and 2.5 meters thick are still evident, built with mud bricks, which once left to dry in the sun became very resistant and compact.

The fortresses border the red Kyzylkum desert, and the higher position of the main one allowed us to admire the whole area, including the camels grazing in the area and the sandstorm in the distance. What can I say, the desert always offers a certain charm!

Khiva

1) Vademecum

• To visit and see the main monuments of Ichon-Qala, it takes at least one day, and we strongly suggest the help of a local guide.
• The main buildings and madrasas are accessible by ticket, which can be purchased just outside the city, near the west gate Ota Darvoza, which means the “father's gate”, rebuilt during the Soviet period.
• The small center of Khiva can be visited on foot.
• Remember to dress in clothes that cover your knees and shoulders when visiting mosques and mausoleums.
• The sun can be hot in the middle of the day, plan your visits accordingly.
• Inside the citadel there are many restaurants and cafes.
• At sunset don't forget to find a position on the walls to take a "souvenir photo!"

2) The history

We have wonderful memories of Khiva, starting with the hotel in which we slept for two nights, because it resembled a madrasa, whose student rooms had been converted into rooms; located in Ichon-Qala, or the city within the walls, perhaps it once actually served as a Koranic school.

Legend has it that Shem, the biblical son of Noah, is the founder of Khiva.

“It is said that Shem, after the flood, found himself wandering in the desert alone. As he fell asleep, he dreamed of 300 lit torches. Upon his awakening, satisfied with this omen, he founded the city with the ship-shaped outlines traced according to the arrangement of the torches, of which he had dreamed. Then Shem dug the well of Kheyvak, whose water tasted amazing.”

Khiva: The City and the Legends. Davr Nashriyoti

In reality it is assumed that in ancient and medieval times Khiva was already an important trading post along the Silk Road.

Destroyed by Genghis Khan in the 13th century, the city recovered only centuries later, becoming the capital of the Khiva Khanate in the 16th century, where the flourishing slave trade activity contributed to the city's immense wealth.

The slave market of Khiva, famous throughout Central Asia, attracted the attention of the neighboring Khanates and above all of Russia, which managed to conquer the city in 1873. In 1924

Khiva became an integral part of the territory of the newly established Soviet Republic of Uzbekistan, which became independent in 1991.

Last curiosity for mathematicians: it is believed that Khiva is the birthplace of Muḥammad ibn Mūsā al-Khwārizmī, (approx 780 – 850), or the father of algebra, a word that derives from the Arabic "al-jabr", which means “to restore” or “to complete”.

3) The historic center

The historic center of the city of Khiva, or Ichon-Qala, is the best preserved on the entire Silk Road.

It is bordered by a mighty square sand-coloured wall which has a gate on each side, called Darvoza, having 2 turrets with domes covered in blue tiles.

Within these walls time seems to have stopped.

The heart of the city center seems like an open-air museum, where an intricate labyrinth of medieval alleys, teeming with stalls and shops, connects ancient madrasas, silent mosques and glittering minarets. Around this pulsating center there are all the other buildings, intended for tourism and services, which are architecturally harmonized with the ancient rest of the city.

Khiva will offer moments to photograph at every glimpse and occasion, especially during sunset, when we recommend climbing the walls and admiring the whole city.

4) What to see

Below we list the main historical buildings we visited in Ichon-Qala.

Kuna Ark Fortress

Kuna Ark has been the ruler's palace for centuries, a fortress within a fortress. Inside it houses the state mint, a prison, the harem and the audience hall.

The summer mosque is a beautiful example of Iwan, an omnipresent architectural element in Persian culture: the prayer room is closed on 3 sides on four by walls decorated with white and blue tiles, depicting geometric and vegetal motifs, and is covered by a ceiling in wood supported by 6 splendid inlaid wooden columns, with marble bases.

The throne room, finely decorated with painted wooden walls, was used for public hearings. The sovereign sat on a throne, placed in a niche with an arched ceiling. The room overlooked an Iwan finely decorated with ceramics decorated with white and blue majolica.

The Iwan is oriented to the north to prevent excessive heat during the summer. In the external courtyard there was a yurt, used for audiences during the winter period, which recalls its nomadic and Mongolian origins. Also in the fortress there is a staircase that leads to the top of the bastion, from which you can admire all the splendor of the city.

Kalta Minor minaret

To the east of the Kuna fortress stands the unmistakable Kalta Minor minaret. 29 meters high and 15 meters in diameter, its squat shape attracts the gaze of every visitor, who remains fascinated by its splendid sparkling ceramics in seawater, blue and green, the latter the characteristic color of the Bukhara style.

The minaret was supposed to be 70 meters high, and according to historical sources and legends the sovereign wanted a minaret higher than that of Bukhara, but due to probable structural problems the architect stopped at the current height.

Next to the minaret is Muhammed Amin Khan's Madrasa, which today has been converted into a luxury hotel, unmistakable for its decorated portal.

Mohammed Rakhim Khan madrasa

We passed this splendid madrasa in the evening, where a light show animates the cells on its facade, where they were once used by students of the Koran. It was built by Rakhim Khan, the last ruler of Khiva before the Russian conquest.

Sayid Alauddin mausoleum

To the south of the Mohammed Rakhim Khan madrasa is the mausoleum of Sayid Alauddin, the oldest monument in the city (1310), built by the Mongol rulers of the Golden Horde in honor of the important Sufi figure after whom the mausoleum takes its name.

Djuma mosque

Nearby is the Juma mosque, the most visited in the city, a covered building with a rectangular area where over 200 wooden columns support the wooden ceiling. These columns, unique elements that differ from each other, are undoubtedly the added value of this bare mosque.

Next to the mosque is its minaret, 44 meters high.

Pakhlavan Mahmood mausoleum

It is here that the tomb of the patron saint of Khiva is located, Pakhlavan Mahmood, who was the spiritual guide of many rulers, a philosopher and a valiant fighter, famous throughout the Islamic East.

In 1800 the ruling family expanded the structure transforming it into a royal mausoleum, one of the most beautiful in all of Uzbekistan. In fact, the saint's tomb is not the most beautiful room, but rather the one where one of the sovereigns is buried, covered with glazed ceramics and ivory.

Minaret Islam Khoja and Madrasa

At over 50 metres, it is one of the tallest minarets in all of Uzbekistan.

Together with the madrasa, it was built at the beginning of the 20th century at the behest of Islam Khodja, prime minister of the Khanate of Khiva, who was assassinated by the Khan for his markedly reformist soul. At night, its modern lighting captures the eye.

Tosh-Hovli Palace

This royal palace was built at the behest of Khan Allah Kuli in 1830, because the ruler wanted to abandon the Kuna Ark.

The story goes that the first architect was beheaded because he did not finish the work within the agreed two years.

The second architect completed the palace in 1838, thanks to the help of over 1000 slaves. Subsequently, further sectors were expanded, making it a bit labyrinthine.

Here you can admire the throne room, where the Khan received guests, and the rooms that housed the women of the harem.

The most interesting element and rich in blue ceramic decorations are the walls that enclose the courtyard of the harem, where in the southern part 5 Iwan have been created (one for the Khan and the other 4 for the wives).